Uncle Reggie Story : URS: Egg and I
与曾叔叔讲故事:鸡蛋与我 (Andy/sm 翻譯)
Nothing much can beat the fried egg on top of Bibimbap. Photo and product of Eunsol Kim, Seattle
没有什么比韩式拌饭上的煎鸡蛋更好吃的了。照片和制作:Eunsol Kim,西雅图。

I just saw an old, old movie, “The Egg and I,” and it provoked a huge number of disparate thoughts in my mind, since eggs and I have had a special relationship from childhood.

我刚看了一部很老的电影《鸡蛋与我》,它在我脑海中激起了大量截然不同的想法,因为我从小的时候起就一直跟鸡蛋有很特殊的关系。

You know how people do strange things when they go to college because suddenly they have a lot more freedom. I was intrigued in college by the “free” (technically prepaid) meals in the college dormitory, which in my case included as many eggs as I wanted. So, escaping the home constraints of at most one egg a day, I began to eat as many as 3-6 eggs a day. Fried or boiled eggs were all fine with me, but I especially loved the “sunny side up” or “over easy” ones the kitchen served. It was just fabulous to be able to eat in this way to my heart’s delight. No one ever breathed a concern about cholesterol in those days!

你知道吧,人们在开始上大学时会做出一些奇怪的事,因为他们忽然间有更多自由。我上大学的时候,对“免费”的(实际上是预付的)宿舍餐充满好奇心,因为对我而言,它意味着我可以吃不限量的鸡蛋。于是,我一旦逃脱家里一天最多可以吃到一颗鸡蛋的限制,就开始一天吃多达三到六颗鸡蛋。煎的或者煮的都行,但我尤其喜欢厨房提供的单面煎鸡蛋或荷包蛋。能够这样尽情地吃鸡蛋,简直是美妙至极。当时,没有人会担心胆固醇!

Today I still savor the sweet memories of eggs for breakfast, especially eggs on toast, with the egg yolk spilling over and soaking the buttered (real butter) toast! So when I get a chance to eat out for breakfast, that’s what my favorite order is, always.

时至今日,我仍然回味享受鸡蛋早餐的甜美回忆,特别是烤面包片上的鸡蛋——在涂过黄油(真正的黄油)的面包上蛋黄溢流而浸泡的那种!所以,当我有机会出去吃早餐时,我每次最喜欢点的就是它。

And in my Hong Kong childhood, there was also a delicious, though ordinary, childhood dish called fried tomatoes and eggs with fried rice, ke dan chao fan. But then as I grew older, I realized that you could have great chopped up fried eggs with Singapore fried noodles, or sunny side up egg on top of the Korean Bibimbap or Indonesian Nasi Goreng, or even minced fried egg mixed in throughout Spanish paella. Are you salivating even at the mention of these wonderful dishes?

而且,在我童年的香港还有一道可口而普通的菜叫做西红柿鸡蛋炒饭,就是鸡蛋炒饭。可是,我长大之后发现,你还可以在新加坡炒面中加入剁碎了的煎鸡蛋,或者在韩式拌饭或印尼炒饭上加一个单面煎鸡蛋,甚至在西班牙海鲜饭里加入切碎的煎鸡蛋。说起这些美味佳肴,你是不是已经垂延三尺了?

Standing up for eggs. Transfer of egg from mom (left) to dad for safekeeping, to wait as she marches off, to return with food months later. From BBC TV Planet Earth: Frozen Planet.
为蛋而立。企鹅蛋从妈妈(左)处被转移到爸爸处保管,等着她出发过后几个月把食物带回来。来源BBC TV《行星地球:冰冻星球》。

Every one of these dishes had the signature involvement of egg as the common denominator of food excellence for me. Every time I look at any menu, and I see that there are eggs somewhere on it, I pay attention. Some childhood “call” I guess. Oh, and yes, egg custards dan tat, fresh out of the oven, I can even feel it now in my mouth. I would just wait outside the bakery, knowing the specific time they would come out, always delectably hot.

这些菜中每一道都有鸡蛋,对我来说,这是优质食物的共同特点。每当我翻阅任何菜单,若在其中看到鸡蛋,就会更加吸引我的注意力。我想,这可能是某种来自童年的“呼唤”吧。哦,还有刚出炉的蛋挞,我现在似乎就能在嘴里感觉到。我会在它们出炉的时候,准时守候在面包房的门口每次都是热乎乎的,美味又可口。

And then there were the famous so-called 1000-year eggs, salted duck eggs, pigeon eggs, crab eggs, fish eggs or roe, all pretty sophisticated and tasty kinds of foods for me then. Even moon-cakes, since the best ones had the best golden egg yolks. Yet, to me, nothing really beats just ordinary fried chicken eggs themselves, stand-alone in excellence, just looking me in the eye. And, true confession, it’s really about the only thing I know how to cook and fry anyway!

还有出名的松花皮蛋(所谓千年蛋)、咸鸭蛋、鸽子蛋、蟹籽和鱼籽,当时对我而言,都是相当精致而美味的菜肴。连月饼也是,因为最好吃的那种有最可口的金黄色蛋黄在里面。可是,对于我来说,没有什么比普普通通的煎鸡蛋更胜一筹的了,它卓越超群而又简单朴素。而且,说实话,这真的是唯一我自己会做的菜!

When I arrived in Cincinnati in 1969 it was just the beginnings of the great controversy about eggs and cholesterol. I happened to be in the middle of this excitement because I became heavily involved in nutrition research, which included studying cholesterol in childhood. I was intrigued by an earlier study from one of my then colleagues, who had previously fed 3 to 6 eggs (!) per day to school children in South Africa, with no apparent bad side effects on blood cholesterol concentrations.

当我在1969年来到辛辛那提市的时候,有关鸡蛋和胆固醇的大争议才刚刚开始。因为我深度参与了营养研究,其中包括儿童时期胆固醇的研究,所以我恰好身处这波热潮中。当时,我对一位同事早期的一项研究很好奇。他之前在南非,每天让上学的孩子吃3到6颗鸡蛋(!),而在血液胆固醇浓度上却没有发现明显的不良副作用。

It created quite a controversy, adding fuel to the “how many eggs can I safely have each week” controversy that would rock the cholesterol world for decades. For a while nobody dared even to eat eggs because of its apparently high cholesterol content. It seems that the controversy now has calmed down to a general resignation that having eggs is a fine thing, though I do not know of any professional advocates for 6 eggs a day, yet.

这引起了不小的争议,为“我每周可以安全地吃多少鸡蛋”的争议火上加油,而这场争议将撼动胆固醇界数十年。有一段时间,甚至没人敢吃鸡蛋,因为其胆固醇含量似乎很高。现在看起来这场争议已经平息下来,转变成吃鸡蛋没有问题的一般共识,但我没听说过提倡一天吃6个鸡蛋的专家,至少目前还没有。

Eggs look so delicate but they are also so rich in innumerable good things. I’m guessing you’ve never sucked them when freshly laid. With all the alarms today, I’m guessing you might never.
鸡蛋看起来非常脆弱,但它们也富含无数的营养。我猜你从未吮吸过刚生下的鸡蛋。鉴于当今的种种警告,我猜你也很可能永远不会试一试了。

Following decades of maligning the poor egg, it turns out that just measuring the significant cholesterol content in egg (yolk) is such an inadequate (even primitive) way of understanding the beauty of the entire egg, reflected now by the increasing discovery of its likely hundreds of fascinating nutrient components! I like to think that, in my childhood naivety, I had already instinctively recognized its beauty way back in time!

几十年抹黑可怜的鸡蛋之后,人们发现,仅仅通过测量鸡蛋(蛋黄)胆固醇的有效含量来诠释鸡蛋的整体价值是种多么不充足(甚至是原始)的方式。而现在越来越多的发现证实了鸡蛋中所含有的营养成分数量可达几百种!我想,儿时天真的我早已经本能地意识到了鸡蛋的可贵!

The embryo chick story is also fascinating to me. It lies inside the eggshell snugly and safely as nutrients are carefully transferred from yolk (sac) to growing embryo. The shell is itself safely inside the mother hen. The calcium rich egg shell could be considered similar to the womb for the human embryo. And even a poetic picture of my lifelong fascination for nutrition and calcium, nurturing and protecting babies especially around the time of birth.

鸡胚的故事对我来说也很有意思。它舒适安全地躺在鸡蛋壳内的同时,营养素从卵黄(囊)小心地被传输给发育中的胚胎。蛋壳本身安全地处于母鸡的身体内。富有钙的蛋壳好比人类胚胎所处的子宫。这诗意般的画面,形象地描绘了我一生对营养和钙的迷恋,而尤其在出生前后的阶段为婴儿提供充分的营养和保护。

And it is just remarkable to see how different kinds of animals protect their embryos by nurturing them while they are in the form of eggs. “Oviparous” is the technical term for animals like this. One of the most astonishing stories to me is how oviparous emperor penguins transfer their egg from mom to dad for safe-keeping. While both parents are standing straight up during the transfer!

看到不同动物如何养育保护它们卵状的胚胎也是很令人惊叹的。这类动物在专业术语上被称为“卵生动物”。对我而言最不可思议的故事之一是卵生的帝企鹅如何把它们的卵从妈妈处传递给爸爸来保管,而转交的过程中,父母两个都是站立的!

Also mind-boggling is how the dad then protects their egg, basically hovering over the egg while standing up for 64 days, waiting for the mother penguin to come back with the food that she has foraged from the ocean hundreds of miles away. And finally the priceless transfer of the newly hatched chick back to the mother, again while both parents are standing. A poetic egg shaped love story indeed.

同样令人难以置信的是,之后企鹅爸爸如何保护它们的蛋:它们要保持站立64天将蛋置于身下,一直等候企鹅妈妈从几百英里之外的大海觅食回来。最后,刚出壳的宝贝小企鹅被送回给企鹅妈妈,而在再次转交过程中,父母俩依然都是站立着的。这确实是一个充满诗意的蛋形爱情故事。

Delving into cholesterol intakes in childhood. Don’t blame the egg. A surprise unsolicited 2020 reminder of one of my original scientific articles half a century ago.
钻研儿童时期胆固醇摄取。不要责备鸡蛋。2020年我意外收到的信息,提醒我关于半个世纪之前我所发表的一份科研报告。

The “neonatology of chickens” is dramatic. At the perfect time, some alarm rings, and the chick simply starts pecking on the egg shell from within. No outside birth assistance needed. Then, oops, the egg shell is cracked, the chick pops out, and even starts running. Such creative genius, from that fantastic inner drive to survive, to be born, to breathe and to run.

“鸡类的新生儿科”是很戏剧性的。在最佳时刻,某种警号响起,而鸡蛋里的小鸡开始从里面啄蛋壳。不需要任何外在的分娩辅助。然后,噢,蛋壳裂开,小鸡蹦出来,甚至跑起来。如此富有创造性的天赋,来自一股绝妙的为生存、出生、呼吸和奔跑的内在驱动力。

What is that amazing instinct that propels the chick to do such an astonishing thing? What is that DNA that drives all those wonderful new proteins that are being discovered, each involved with each component of this complicated process…? Who designed that instinct, that DNA, the real Designer of all of this creative genius?

驱使一只小鸡做出如此惊人举动的神奇本能到底是什么?在那些正在被发现的奇妙的新型蛋白质背后,驱动它们的基因(DNA)又是什么?每个过程都非常复杂,因为需要很多步骤和成份——每一个步骤或成份都被一个蛋白质控制,而蛋白质又被基因所控制。是谁设计了那种本能,那种基因——这一切创造性天赋背后的真正设计师到底是谁?

And then the pure joy I have had of picking up freshly laid eggs on the farm. The gentleness with which one should do this, and then to put the eggs carefully into some kind of a container without cracking them. And the marvel for me to actually poke a hole in one end of the egg and suck out the warm egg ingredients, which gives such a primitive pleasure.

还有我在农场捡到刚刚下出来的鸡蛋时所经历过的单纯快乐。所需要采取的那种轻柔动作,之后小心翼翼地把鸡蛋放在容器中,免得把它们弄碎。而在一颗鸡蛋上戳一个洞,把热乎乎的蛋液吸出来,这给我带来的那种非常原始的享受,很令我惊奇。

I’m guessing no one does this anymore, but you’ll be amazed how sweet that taste is. As moderns, we all are nervous that there might be some secret bug that would give us grief, so we will never join the thousands or millions of people who have tasted the pure joy of fresh warm newly born egg sucks! I still tingle at this thought.

我猜,现在已经没人这么做了,但那种甜美会令你非常惊讶。作为现代人,我们都很紧张里面可能有什么不知道的危害人的细菌,于是我们永远不会成为那些吸食品尝热乎乎的新生鸡蛋的成千上万幸福人群中的一员!想到此事仍然令我激动不已。

Of course, it is indisputable that eggs are truly nutritious. They are a wonderful contribution to worldwide nutrition, being relatively cheap and accessible, and providing very fine protein from many angles. Eggs can even easily replace meats for protein needs, so don’t belittle them. Ah, the beauty and the dignity of the egg!

当然,鸡蛋的真正营养价值是毋庸置疑的。它们对全球的营养做了很了不起的贡献,因为比较便宜又易于获取,从很多方面提供着优质的蛋白质。在蛋白质需求上,鸡蛋甚至很容易可以代替肉类,所以不要小看它们。鸡蛋是如此的美丽高贵啊!

I guess I could go on and on about the “Egg and I,” just one of the many amazing Creations that we see all around us, if we can recapture the innocent wonders of childhood tastes, and the innocent joys of childlike eyes wide open. Are we still arguing about how many eggs we should eat each day?

我好像可以滔滔不绝地继续讲“鸡蛋与我”的故事,如果我们能够重拾童年时尝试不同味道给我们带来的惊叹,找回孩童时睁大眼睛探寻未知的快乐,就会发现,这只是我们周围随处可见的精彩创造物之一。我们还在为一天应该吃多少鸡蛋而争吵吗?